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Vintage & Terroir

Glossary of
Champagne

An authoritative compendium of terminology for the connoisseur, curated by Jiles Halling to deepen your appreciation of the world's most prestigious effervescent wines.

Glossary
A

Aÿ

The Two Dots Over The Y Mean It's Pronounced Separately From The A, So The Name Sounds Like I.E.

A town just outside Epernay. Aÿ was the ancient centre of the wine industry when the region was better known for still wine than sparkling.

Today Aÿ is one of only 17 villages with Grand Cru status and boasts one of the largest south-facing vineyard slopes in Champagne. Mainly planted with Pinot Noir, Aÿ produces big full-flavoured wines much sought after to make powerful champagnes.

Aÿ's other claim to fame is as an answer to crossword puzzles in France: "village in Champagne with two letters in the name".

Ambonnay

Another of the Grand Cru Villages. Ambonnay is in a slight dip where the temperature can be a degree or two higher than elsewhere. This produces slightly riper grapes with full flavour, rather like Aÿ.

Avize

Yet another Grand Cru village. Avize is in the Côte des Blancs where Chardonnay reigns supreme and is home to some of the finest Blanc de Blancs champagnes: De Sousa, Vazart-Coquart, Agrapart and others.

Taking note of the village where a champagne comes from sometimes gives a clue as to the style, particularly with the smaller growers who tend to source grapes in and around their home village.

Assemblage

The process of combining together many still wines from different grapes, different villages and different years to make a blend that is superior to each individual wine. This is one of the key elements that distinguishes champagne from some other wines.

Assemblage takes place in the spring of each year and the resulting blend is put into bottles for the second fermentation and ageing. Thanks to assemblage a champagne may contain dozens of different wines, occasionally more than 100, in the blend. Assemblage requires great skill and experience.

B

Beaumont-sur-Vesle

A Grand Cru village, but to be frank not one that you'd put top of your list of places to visit. The vineyards may be top notch, but the problem is that the village is split by the main Reims–Châlons road and there's lots of traffic on it.

Bouzy

Bouzy on the other hand is well worth a visit. Apart from the wonderful name, Bouzy has some of the best vineyards in Champagne, particularly the top half of the wide slope behind the village — an area known as derrière le château, or behind the water tower. It is also a Grand Cru village.

Bidule

Literally The Thingamejig/Thingamebob

The little plastic stopper that fits inside the metal cap used to seal the bottles whilst they age in the cellars. They're cheap, are not made of cork so there's no risk of the champagne becoming corked, and they let just the right amount of air into the bottle so the wine can age properly.

Bourgeon

The bud that comes out on a vine in Spring.

C

Capsule Couronne

The metal crown cap that, together with the bidule, seals the bottle during the second fermentation and ageing in the cellars.

Châlons-en-Champagne

Formerly known as Châlons-sur-Marne, this largish town some 30 miles south of Reims is the administrative capital of the region. These days there is only one champagne house still based in the town: Champagne Joseph Perrier.

Chalk

The secret weapon of the Champagne region. Across the entire region there's a thick layer of chalk under the thin layer of top soil. The chalk promotes better drainage which the vines appreciate, and it retains heat from the sun that allows the grapes to ripen more than they would otherwise.

Chaptalisation

The practice of adding sugar to pressed grape juice before fermenting it into wine. This is done in years when the natural sugar content in the grapes is low, ensuring the level of alcohol in the wine reaches the required level.

Comité Champagne

Formerly Known As The CIVC

The governing body of the champagne industry that sets and monitors the rules — and there are an awful lot of them. They perform an essential role in maintaining the stability of the champagne market and in squaring the circle between the various players: grape growers, small champagne producers, cooperatives and large maisons whose interests can sometimes be directly opposed.

Coopérative

A grouping of grape growers and/or small champagne makers who pool their resources for greater success. Members usually sell their grapes to the coop and then either let the coop press and market the wine under its own brand (Champagne de St. Gall being one such), or take back the pressed juice to make champagne under their individual brand name.

Cristal

Famous and very expensive champagne created in 1876 by the house of Louis Roederer — making Cristal the first of the so-called Cuvées de Prestige. It was made at the insistence of Tsar Alexandre II of Russia and put in a clear bottle because the Tsar insisted his personal champagne be visibly different from all others. In those days it was a very sweet champagne, not at all like the modern Cristal.

Cru

A word used in the quality ranking system amongst Champagne villages. At the top are 17 Grand Cru villages (ranked 100%), next are 41 Premier Cru villages (90–99%), followed by all other villages (80–89%) designated simply as Cru.

Cuvée

La Cuvée is the name given to the first juice that comes from the press. It contains a higher level of sugar and acid than juice running off later in the pressing process — two vital ingredients for making a good champagne, making La Cuvée the most sought-after juice. It also contains fewer of the astringent elements that enter from stalks, pips and skin in later pressings.

terroir

The Art of Terroir

Understanding the
nuances of the vine.

The vocabulary of Champagne is more than just technicality; it is a language of history, geography and meticulous craft. Every term represents a decision made in the vineyard or the cellar that ultimately finds its expression in your glass.

D

Débourbage

Filtering off the sediment (bits of leaf, stalk, dirt, etc.) from the grape juice shortly after pressing so that the remaining juice is clear before it starts its fermentation.

Dégorgement

Before a bottle of champagne is sold, the yeast sediment deposited during the second fermentation must be removed. These days the neck of the bottle is plunged into a freezing liquid forming an ice cube that traps the sediment; the cap is then removed and the pressure inside ejects the ice cube, taking the sediment with it.

The traditional method — dégorgement à la volée — is done entirely by hand without the ice cube. Holding the bottle neck-down the cellar worker tilts it upwards; the air bubble at the base travels to the neck and at the precise moment it arrives, the worker flicks off the cap ejecting the sediment. Spectacular, but messy and wasteful.

Watch: Dégorgement à la Volée

Dizy

Village in Champagne. Not amongst the topmost villages in terms of the quality of its grapes, but a memorable name to go alongside that of its neighbour Bouzy.

Dom Pérignon

1639–1715

Not the inventor of champagne as is often — mistakenly — thought, but certainly the man who laid the foundations for improvements in quality and for the later fame of champagne. Dom Pérignon was a monk at the Abbey of Hautvillers where he was in charge of the abbey's finances, with wine playing a large part.

He introduced the practice of blending grapes from different areas, started to use corks instead of wooden stoppers, and introduced strong glass bottles to contain the fizzy wine. The first Dom Pérignon vintage to be sold was the 1921, released in 1935 to 150 special clients of Moët's UK importer, Simon Bros.

Dosage

The addition of a small amount of liquid sugar at the very end of the champagne-making process to adjust sweetness. Because all sugar has been consumed during fermentation, the champagne at this stage is bone dry — too dry for most palates. The more sugar added (measured in grams per litre, or g/l), the sweeter the result. Knowing the dosage is one of the four key things to understand before buying a bottle of champagne.

E

Échelle des Crus

The quality scale used to rank Champagne villages according to the quality of grapes grown there. Of the 323 villages in Champagne, 17 are Grand Cru (rated 100%), 42 are Premier Cru (90–99%) and all others are designated Cru (80–89%). You'll usually see Grand Cru or Premier Cru on the label if applicable; if neither appears, the grapes are plain Cru.

Écimage

One of the many annual vineyard tasks. Écimage involves trimming off the topmost shoots and leaves of the vine, usually starting in June when vines grow quickly. It directs sap towards the grapes where it is most needed and eases the passage of tractors between rows for other summer tasks.

Effeuillage

The removal of excess leaves just before the harvest so that pickers can more easily see the bunches and pick more quickly. Usually done by a tractor fitted with an effeuilleuse — a tool using high-pressure compressed air to blast leaves off the vines.

Watch: Effeuillage In Action

Enherbement

Growing grass between the rows of vines to loosen the soil and encourage microbial life. A key element of sustainable and organic viticulture in Champagne.

Épernay

Home to Moët & Chandon, Pol Roger, Perrier-Jouët and dozens of smaller houses. There is quite a bit of rivalry with Reims: Reims calls itself the Capital of La Champagne (the region); Épernay struck back by calling itself the Capital of Le Champagne (the wine).

F

Fermentation

There are at least two, and usually three, fermentations in the champagne-making process.

1) Alcoholic Fermentation — The reaction of yeast on the grape skins with the sugar in the grape juice produces alcohol and carbon dioxide gas, turning juice into still wine whilst the gas escapes into the air.

2) Malolactic Fermentation — After the first fermentation, certain bacteria break down the harsh malic acid and turn it into the milder lactic acid. This generally makes champagne smoother and more complex, although some houses (notably Lanson) deliberately skip it to produce a more racy, distinctive style.

3) Second Fermentation — When the still wine is transferred into bottles, a measured addition of sugar and yeast is added before sealing. The same reaction as the first fermentation now takes place inside the bottle. The CO₂ gas, unable to escape, dissolves into the wine and creates the distinctive champagne bubbles.

Finish

The last part of the wine-tasting process. After swallowing a sip, does the taste linger strongly in the mouth? If so, the wine is said to have a long finish — generally the mark of a well-made wine. If the taste disappears immediately, that's not a good sign.

G

Gelées de Printemps

The spring frosts that can be so dangerous to the vines and more particularly to the tiny buds just beginning to appear. No buds means no grapes, so the entire year's crop is affected. Since 1875 there have been 55 years in which 1% or more of the crop was destroyed by spring frost, and 6 years in which more than 40% of the entire crop was wiped out.

Grafting

In the late 1800s the pest Phylloxera invaded and wiped out the majority of the world's vines by attacking their roots. The only successful remedy was to graft cuttings from European grape varieties onto American root stocks, which were naturally resistant. This practice continues to this day and has become a fundamental part of viticulture the world over.

Grappe

A Faux Ami — False Friend

The word looks familiar, so you think you know what it means. In fact la grappe doesn't mean a single grape, but a whole bunch of grapes. A single grape is une baie.

Grappillage

Collecting from the vines the remaining grapes that were either unripe or unnoticed when the main harvest took place. Not always permitted if the maximum allowed yield has already been picked.

Grêle

Hail — the scourge of the vineyards in summer. Hail can destroy great swathes of vines with the result that the entire crop can be lost in some localised areas.

H

Hautvillers

Not the birthplace of Dom Pérignon, but the site of the abbey where he lived and worked for many years and where he is buried. One of the prettiest villages in Champagne, well-known for the wrought-iron signs hanging above many of its doors.

I

Inox

French Colloquial Word For Stainless Steel

In Champagne, refers to the stainless steel vats used to store wine, as opposed to more traditional enamel or wooden vessels. Inox is easier to keep clean and the vats can be temperature-controlled to ensure perfect conditions for fermentation. Most big houses converted entirely to inox from the 1960s onwards. Traditionalists argue that stainless steel removes the soul of the wine, rendering it rigid and lacking the warmth and depth of enamel or oak barrels. The debate runs on.

L

Labour

Nothing To Do With Work Or Childbirth

Labour refers to ploughing along the base of the vines to aerate the soil and encourage vine roots to penetrate deeper underground.

Latte

The slat of wood used to stabilise piles of bottles ageing in the cellar. A latte is usually inserted between every fourth layer of bottles. See also Sur Latte.

Lees

Lies In French

The all-important yeast sediment left inside the bottle after the second fermentation. The lees are dead yeast cells which slowly decay and release the amino acids, enzymes and other nutrients that allow the tastes and aromas of the champagne to develop over time.

Lieu-Dit

A small area of vineyard with a specific name. Some names are evocative: Derrière l'Allée (Behind the Lane), Les Côtes au Vent (Windy Hillside), La Côte Aux Renards (Fox Hill). A few champagne makers produce a champagne using only grapes from one single lieu-dit, giving a vivid expression of the subtle differences that soil can bring to the wine.

Liqueur

De Tirage Or D'Expédition

Liqueur is the name given to the liquid added either at bottling (liqueur de tirage) or just after dégorgement (liqueur d'expédition). The former is a mixture of yeast and sugar to provoke the second alcoholic fermentation inside the bottle. The latter is a mixture of wine and sugar — firstly to replace the small volume lost during dégorgement and secondly to adjust the sweetness of the champagne before sale.

P

Parcelle

A single plot of vines. There may be several parcelles in one lieu-dit. There are some 270,000 parcelles in the Champagne AOC owned by approximately 20,000 vignerons — giving the landscape the appearance of an immense patchwork quilt of greenery.

R

Récoltant Manipulant

RM — Harvester And Handler

Someone who grows grapes in their own vineyard and uses those grapes to produce their own champagne — in practice the smaller champagne makers, whose wines are often called Grower Champagnes. An RM is not allowed to buy from third parties more than 5% of the grapes used. You'll find the letters RM in small text on the label alongside a unique registration number.

Remuage

Known As Riddling In English

The process of gently twisting and raising each bottle so the yeast sediment resting on the underside slides down to the neck. Remuage takes between one and three weeks, depending on whether done manually or by machine (a gyropalette). Once complete, the bottles are ready to be disgorged.

S

Sur Latte

Name given to bottles stacked in the cellar to age, referring to the wooden slats inserted between rows of bottles to stabilise the pile. During this ageing period champagne can be bought by one producer from another, with the buyer finishing production and selling the wine under their own brand — called Vin sur latte.

Sur Pointe

Name given to bottles stored vertically with the neck downwards. In this position the surface area of lees in contact with the wine is reduced, slowing the ageing process and allowing champagne to be kept for extremely long periods.

T

Taille

Means Pruning

As with just about everything else in Champagne, there are strict rules about how vines must be pruned, with a designated procedure for each grape variety. In theory pruning can start straight after harvest, but in practice vignerons typically begin in November through to March the following year.

Tirage

The Word Used For Bottling

Before being put into bottles a carefully measured quantity of liqueur and liquid yeast solution are added to the still wine to ensure the second alcoholic fermentation starts inside the bottle and creates the bubbles. Tirage cannot take place before 1st January of the year following the harvest; each producer chooses their own dates according to when they feel the wine is ready.

V

Vendange

The harvest, typically taking place in September or October, when decisions about picking timing are critical to wine quality.

Vigneron

A vine grower, often also responsible for producing wine from their own vineyards as a Récoltant Manipulant.

Vintage

A champagne made exclusively from the grapes of one declared exceptional year, aged for a minimum of three years on the lees.

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