You might be forgiven if you have never heard of Trélou-sur-Marne and indeed that’s not surprising.
The village has a distinction that it was not keen to publicise: it was at Trélou that phylloxera was first discovered in the Champagne region on 6th August 1890 and even though more than a century has past since phylloxera ravaged the vineyards this claim to fame is not something that the people in Trélou really want to promote
The village is about 30 kilometres west of Epernay down the Vallée de la Marne, just past the town of Dormans where the river is broad and lazy and where one leaves the department of Marne and enters the department of l’Aisne. This particular part of Champagne is called Condé-en-Brie.
Trélou is on the right bank of the river, meaning that the slopes are mainly south facing and enjoy relatively high sunshine resulting in harvest dates that are often a few days earlier than many neighbouring villages in La Vallée de La Marne.
The dominant varietal is Meunier representing some 250 hectares of the 350 hectares planted with vines in this terroir.
Champagnes from Trélou have the fruity character typical of this region and this grape.
It is often assumed that everything to do with organic and biodynamic vine growing and wine making is pure, natural and wholesome, but sometimes the picture is a bit more nuanced than you might imagine. In this series of videos Philippe Brun of Champagne Roger Brun in the village of Aÿ, presents the other side of the story and whilst he is certainly in favour of sensible viticulture and of looking after the environment, he has a few other points to make as well.
I am often struck by the fact that there’s always something new to learn in Champagne and a case in point is a recent visit to Champagne François Secondé in Sillery.
However, judging from the collection of old labels at Champagne François Secondé the good vignerons of Sillery were very active and it seems that their champagnes were exported all over the world although for some reason which I have yet to get to the bottom of, they were often just described as ‘mousseux’ (sparkling wine), instead of champagne.
Today Sillery seems far less bustling. There are a handful of champagnes made by the local cooperative and sold under the own label by the members of the cooperative, but Champagne Francois Sécondé is only remaining Récoltant Manipulant in the village. Run by a gentleman of the same name who sold the first bottles under his own name in 1975, the estate now comprises 5.5 hectares planted 2/3 with Pinot Noir and 1/3 Chardonnay situated mainly in the village of Sillery and its neighbour Puisieulx which is also a Grand Cru (and very difficult to pronounce).
Much more can be said about the history and particularities of Sillery and all that will be the subject of a separate article in due course but before leaving François Secondé I have to mention something else unique about this small producer; it’s the only producer making a 100% Puisieulx Grand Cru champagne. In 15 years or more I had never come across this champagne until the other day which just goes to show that there is indeed always something new to discover in Champagne.
This is the second in a three-video series in which Philippe Brun of Champagne Roger Brun shares his experience and opinions about soil management in Champagne. 